WhatsApp
Every winter, billions of herring move into the fjords of northern Norway, and hundreds of orcas and humpback whales follow them in. It is one of the most concentrated feeding events in the ocean, and it happens in the coldest, darkest months of the year.
Most people do not think of November as peak season for anything. Up here it is. This guide covers when to go, where to base yourself, and what it is actually like floating in Arctic water while killer whales hunt beneath you.
Norwegian spring-spawning herring is one of the largest fish stocks in the world, numbering in the billions. The fish spend summer feeding in the open Norwegian Sea. Each autumn, huge schools move towards the sheltered fjords of northern Norway to overwinter in dense concentrations. The exact timing and location shift from year to year, but the herring usually reaches the northern fjords in October and November.
Orca pods that specialise in herring follow them in from the open ocean. In a good season several hundred orcas can gather in a relatively small area of fjord. They hunt with carousel feeding: a pod works together to herd the herring into a tight ball near the surface, then stuns the fish with tail slaps and picks them off one by one.
Humpback whales join the party. After a summer feeding in high Arctic waters they migrate south along the coast, and many follow the herring into the same fjords. On a good day you see both species working the same water, with humpbacks feeding at the edges of the orca activity and lunging through the fish the orcas have gathered.
The first orcas arrive while the herring is still moving in. Some days you find active pods, other days you do not. If you are flexible and want quieter boats, October can work, but you are gambling on whether the herring, and therefore the whales, have arrived in force.
By November the herring schools are densely packed in the fjords and orca activity is at its highest. Pods settle into hunting patterns, behaviour becomes more predictable and carousel feeding can happen almost daily. Historically this is the most reliable stretch of the season, which is why we run our Orca and Lyngen Alps expedition in November.
As winter goes on, some of the herring starts moving offshore and the whales can spread out, so finding active pods may take longer on the boat. In recent winters, though, the fjords around Skjervøy have often held whales well into January. January also brings the first light back after the polar night, deep snow in the mountains and long, dark skies for the aurora. That is why January is our second expedition month.
If your only goal is the biggest possible orca numbers, aim for November. If you also want winter mountains, snow activities and a better balance of light and dark, January is a strong choice.
Skjervøy is the main hub. It is a small fishing village north of Tromsø, sitting where the herring funnels into narrow fjords, and most serious orca operators work from here in season.
Tromsø has the airport, more choice in places to stay and easier connections, but it is further from the herring grounds. Based there, you spend more of your short daylight getting to the whales.
Lofoten occasionally sees orcas, but not reliably. If you are visiting Lofoten, treat a sighting as a bonus rather than the plan.
On our expedition we pick you up in Tromsø, take the express ferry to Skjervøy and continue by private boat to our fjord camp in Reinfjord, so you wake up close to where the whales are feeding.
You spend most of the usable daylight on the boat, looking for herring, birds and the whales that follow them. When you find an active pod, the crew watches the animals and the conditions before anyone gets in. If it looks right, small groups slip into the water quietly.
Once in, you float and let the orcas decide. Sometimes they are curious and pass close. Sometimes they ignore you completely. Both are normal. Some days you get several swims, other days you watch from the boat. That is wildlife, and it does not perform on demand.
The water sits somewhere between 4 and 8°C. With the right suit it is far more manageable than it sounds. On our expedition we provide a 9 mm wetsuit with hood, gloves, boots, fins and mask, so you do not need to bring anything special for the water.
You do need to be a confident swimmer to get in. The crew decides each swim based on conditions and whale behaviour, and some days the call is to stay on board. We do not accept guests who cannot swim comfortably in the open ocean.
In early November the sun rises around 9:30 and sets before 14:30 near Tromsø. From late November the sun stays below the horizon altogether and you get a few hours of soft blue twilight in the middle of the day. That leaves 17 hours or more of darkness, which is excellent for the northern lights. On a clear night above the Arctic Circle, aurora sightings over a multi-night stay are likely.
The weather is harsh. Expect temperatures between -5 and 5°C, wind chill that makes it feel colder, and the odd snow shower. Fog and low cloud can keep boats in port or hide the aurora for days at a time. Dress in layers, bring proper waterproofs and accept that some days will be too rough to go out.
The cold on deck between swims is often harder than the water itself. Pack thermal base layers, a warm insulated jacket, a windproof outer shell, wool socks, a hat and proper mittens. Hand warmers and a thermos of something hot make a bigger difference than you would expect.
This is not a comfortable destination in the resort sense. The darkness takes adjustment and the cold is real. What you get instead is rare: the biggest gathering of orcas in accessible water anywhere, set in snow-covered fjords that make you feel very far from ordinary life.
People who go once tend to come back, not despite the difficulty but partly because of it. Being in the water with a hunting pod a short boat ride from where you slept is something nothing warmer or easier replicates.
Fly into Tromsø (TOS). Skjervøy is a few hours away by car or express ferry. Give yourself at least five to seven days: weather and whale movements can cost you a day or two, and a longer stay gives you more chances for in-water encounters. Choose an operator that keeps groups small, because fewer people means more time in the water each and calmer encounters for the whales.
Our Orca and Lyngen Alps expedition is seven days with a maximum of eight guests. You get three orca days snorkelling with orcas and humpbacks following the winter herring, then the scenic fjord drive to the Lyngen Alps for dog sledding, a Sami reindeer camp and more nights under northern lights skies.
If swimming with orcas is on your list, read through the full expedition and send us an application. Applying is free.
